Discovering Unique Culinary Delights in Hong Kong: Cha Chaan Teng

Waiting in the Light Rain

As a light drizzle fell, I found myself standing in a long line outside Australia Dairy Company, one of the most famous cha chaan teng in Hong Kong. Caleb Ng, a local restaurant owner and my guide, assured me not to worry. The queue would move quickly — and indeed it did; before I could finish my sentence, we were ushered inside. It wasn’t long before we were seated, and I quickly understood why the wait was so short.

This eatery felt like a controlled chaos. Waitstaff weaved through the cramped tables, jotting down orders on slips of paper, and serving up glasses of lemon tea on white laminate tables. Customers came and went, sitting down, standing up, filming the melting butter on French toast, before finally lining up to pay at the register by the door. Ng and I squeezed into a small table facing the wall, and he ordered for me the classics: macaroni soup with ham, milk tea, and fluffy scrambled eggs with toasted white bread.

Everything arrived within four minutes, piping hot. Twenty-two minutes later, I settled the bill and stepped back outside. It truly felt like emerging from a bustling dance floor.

Cha Chaan Teng: The Essence of Hong Kong Cuisine

In the bustling city of Hong Kong, cha chaan teng keeps the locals well-fed. This food genre, born from the colonial era and crafted from readily available ingredients, has become an integral part of Hong Kong's culinary culture. While these establishments may not boast the most glamorous façades, they form the backbone of the local food scene.

The menus are often similar across many dishes, showcasing a fusion of Cantonese and British culinary influences. Popular drinks like Horlicks, a famous malted milk from England, are a staple, along with rich milk tea. Sweet treats like egg tarts and pineapple buns are must-tries for any visitor.

A Unique Dining Experience for Everyone

Cha chaan teng can be found in bustling streets and hidden corners throughout Hong Kong today. Many have stood the test of time for decades and have won over countless patrons; others are simply roadside stalls where customers sit on crates to enjoy a quick cup of milk tea. Ng mentioned that he could list dozens of spots just in Central. Most Hong Kong residents dine at a cha chaan teng at least once a day.

The appeal lies in their convenience. Ng said, “Speed is everything. You know you’ll be out the door in 15 or 20 minutes.” Simple yet familiar food is also a strong point. The menu is mostly standardized, with drinks, pastries, and savory dishes all consistent.

A Journey from the Mid-20th Century

Like language, cuisine evolves over time. Boundaries blur, and new cooking styles emerge. Cha chaan teng in Hong Kong began to take shape after World War II, as Western influences began to mold the local culinary landscape. Samuel Dic Sum Lai, a PhD student at the University of London, has dedicated time to studying the history and culture of these eateries. His task is challenging, as written records about cha chaan teng are scarce.

“Before 1997, many people didn’t think cha chaan teng was worth remembering,” he said. However, he could pinpoint some parts of their story. “The term emerged in the 1950s,” Lai noted, highlighting the blend of popular restaurant styles in Hong Kong during the mid-20th century. Bing sutt, with air conditioning, served cold drinks like iced lemon tea and light snacks.

Feeling the Pulse of the Future

The pandemic and investment from mainland China have reshaped Hong Kong, and cha chaan teng is no exception. However, Lucas Sin, a chef and author of an upcoming book on cha chaan teng, asserts that these eateries remain a strong cultural force. “Old cha chaan teng are closing down,” he said, “but they’re not disappearing.” Instead, they are evolving, even expanding globally.

In Paris, the modern eatery Bing Sutt serves crispy pineapple buns and Ovaltine cookies; meanwhile, 8:52 Hong Kong Restaurant in Sydney offers Hong Kong-style toast. These familiar dishes have transcended the city, distributed globally, and reimagined by chefs in their own ways. Yet this evolution does not dilute the Hong Kong spirit in cha chaan teng. In fact, it is this progression that makes these establishments special — and how they have persevered through the years.

Sin simply puts it: “Change has always been in their DNA.”